What Is a ‘Russian Manicure’—And Could It Be Putting Your Health at Risk?

A fresh manicure—a simple indulgence, a routine beauty fix. Hardly the kind of thing that sparks heated debates, right? Yet, one nail procedure has ignited a storm of divided opinions, emerging as both a beloved trend and a subject of scrutiny in equal measure.

The Russian manicure, despite having existed for years, has recently taken TikTok by storm. Devotees marvel at its pristine, ultra-polished finish, achieved through a meticulous no-soak cuticle removal process. Enthusiasts gush over the impossibly sleek results, with one user, Alexus, exclaiming that her post-manicured hands looked like they belonged to a “hand model.”

Yet, alongside the fanfare, concern looms. Dermatologists and other health professionals are raising red flags, questioning the safety of a technique that prioritizes aesthetic perfection over biological function. “People often forget that cuticles serve an actual purpose,” warns board-certified dermatologist Courtney Rubin, in a cautionary TikTok video addressing the risks of Russian manicures.

So, is this manicure method a dazzling innovation, or is it an invitation to trouble? Let’s examine the facts.

What Exactly Is a Russian Manicure?

To grasp the controversy surrounding Russian manicures, it’s essential to first understand what sets them apart from conventional techniques.

Hailing from Eastern Europe, this meticulous approach discards the familiar step of soaking nails in water to soften the cuticle—the thin, translucent layer of skin at the nail’s base. Instead, manicurists jump straight into precision work, filing and shaping the cuticles while they remain dry.

“This method utilizes an electric file to meticulously shape and remove the cuticles, achieving a highly refined and seamless appearance around the nail bed,” explains Hannah Kopelman, DO, a dermatologist with DermOnDemand.

Unlike traditional manicures, which gently push back the cuticle before trimming any excess, the Russian manicure takes an uncompromising approach—removing the cuticle entirely. “Rather than a light trim, the cuticle is eliminated altogether,” notes Brendan Camp, MD, a dermatologist with MDCS Dermatology in New York City.

After cuticle removal, the nail is polished, buffed, and prepped for polish application. The entire process, painstakingly executed, can stretch over two to three hours.

With the cuticle erased, the nail bed appears longer, offering a broad, immaculate canvas for color application. For many, the result is transformative. TikTokers and celebrities swear by the method, claiming it delivers unparalleled perfection and a longer-lasting manicure. Some even vow never to return to conventional nail treatments.

Are Russian Manicures Safe?

While the aesthetic appeal of a Russian manicure is undeniable, stripping the cuticle away entirely has dermatologists voicing serious concerns. The cuticle is far from a decorative afterthought—it serves as a protective barrier, safeguarding the nail and surrounding skin from harmful bacteria and pathogens.

“The American Academy of Dermatology strongly advises against cutting or removing cuticles,” Camp stresses. “They exist to shield the nail’s root. Damaging or eliminating them compromises this natural defense, increasing the risk of infection and long-term nail damage.”

Among the potential complications? Onychomycosis, a fungal nail infection, and paronychia, a painful bacterial infection that targets the skin around the nail. Consider the case of a 20-year-old woman, highlighted in a 2022 medical report: after undergoing a Russian manicure, she developed severe paronychia, experiencing swelling, pus, and acute pain—symptoms that landed her in the emergency room. She recovered, but only after a round of antibiotics.

Kopelman has encountered even more severe cases, including patients developing cellulitis, a deep skin infection that can escalate into a systemic issue. “It’s rare, but not impossible, for infections to spread beyond the hands and enter the bloodstream,” she cautions. “When the cuticle is breached, bacteria and fungi have a direct entry point.”

But infections aren’t the only risk. The technique itself may weaken nails over time. Without their protective barrier, nails become vulnerable—prone to increased sensitivity, brittleness, and long-term structural damage. “Frequent Russian manicures often lead to chronic nail thinning,” Kopelman explains. “In some cases, repeated trauma to the cuticle region triggers inflammation and even scarring, which can permanently alter nail growth.”

Should You Avoid Russian Manicures?

Does this mean Russian manicures are entirely off-limits? Not necessarily—though caution is key.

Camp doesn’t outright condemn the procedure but emphasizes the importance of choosing an experienced, highly skilled technician. “Technique matters,” he notes. “If you opt for a Russian manicure, ensure the person performing it understands the risks and follows strict hygiene practices.”

Kopelman, however, takes a firmer stance. “I personally advise against Russian manicures,” she says. “The risks outweigh the benefits.”

For those seeking healthier alternatives, gentler nail care options abound. Regular application of nourishing cuticle oils can enhance nail appearance without compromising skin integrity. “There are ways to achieve beautiful nails without sacrificing the protective barrier nature has put in place,” Kopelman insists.

Ultimately, the allure of a flawless manicure is undeniable—but is perfection worth the price of potential damage? The answer may rest in how much risk you’re willing to take.